The former capital of Thailand is now a city in ruins. With roots stretching back to 1350, Ayutthaya was once a magnificent kingdom and flourished for some 400 years as a significant trading port for international merchants. In 1767, the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya and much of the city was ravaged — the beautiful temples were reduced to rubble and whatever was left set afire. Among the debris, some of these structures have risen like phoenixes, and make up the historical wonderland that Ayutthaya is today. Venture out of urban Bangkok into the quieter landscapes of Ayutthaya, and bask in the remnants of Thailand’s past.
Getting to Ayutthaya From Bangkok
Ayutthaya is less than 100 kilometres north of Bangkok, which makes it the perfect day trip for everyone. Depending on one’s budget, there are many transport options available that will take travellers from Bangkok to Ayutthaya.
The most preferred mode of travelling to Ayutthaya is by train, which takes around 2 hours. First-class seats will set one back about 330 THB, and third-class tickets start from THB 20. Your journey starts at Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok and the slow, scenic ride will take you right into Ayutthaya. Once you alight, head over to the pier across from the train station and catch a ferry across the river to where the sights are for around 5 THB.
Taking a minivan is also an option. Make your way to Bangkok’s Mo Chit (northern) bus station, and hop onto a minivan heading in the direction of Ayutthaya. Costing around 100 THB per person, the journey takes between 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on traffic. While it’ll be more comfortable than a ride in a third-class train cabin, minivans only leave when they are full and have a number of stops along the way, so it’ll take you longer to arrive at your destination.
If cost is not an issue, you can hire a taxi or private car instead. Though it will definitely be more expensive than the previous two options, the journey will be much more comfortable, and the journey should take only roughly an hour depending on where you are in Bangkok. Taxis in Bangkok are plentiful. However, prices vary and may be quite steep, up to THB 3000 for a return trip. Alternatively, you can consider the Native Driver Guide service to hire a driver for the day.
Getting Around Ayutthaya
Upon arriving in Ayutthaya, tuk-tuk drivers will tend to swarm tourists in hopes of picking up their customer for the day. At this point, be ready to haggle — many have testified that the best price hovers somewhere above THB 200 an hour. To visit all the temples in this itinerary, five hours should be enough. An alternative as mentioned earlier would be to hire a taxi or a driver guide that you can book on the Native app for the day to take you around the town.
A more authentic experience would be to explore the city on a bicycle. Be warned: temperatures in Ayutthaya are scorching, and it’ll be quite the workout. Nonetheless, make sure to check with your hostel or hotel, as most accommodations in Ayutthaya will offer bike rentals for a cool THB 50 or so a day.
Suggested Itinerary
With Ayutthaya’s abundance of temples, it’s impossible to visit all of them within a single day. It is, however, an absolute to visit at least these few. The attractions are arranged in suggested order of visiting, assuming your starting point to be from the Ayutthaya Train Station Pier.
1. Wat Ratchaburana
According to legend, following the passing of King Intharacha I, his two eldest sons mounted elephants and crossed swords to duel for the throne. In a grievous twist of fate, they slashed each other’s throats and bled to death on the floor of Than Forest Bridge. The third son was crowned as King Borom Ratchathirat II, and he built Wat Ratchaburana on the spot where his brothers were cremated.
Recognized for its central prang (a carved, tower-like spire), most of the architecture around the temple complex was derived from the Khmers, and the main tower hides a secret stairway that winds down into a hidden crypt where unrestored Buddha images adorn the walls; At either side, the central tower is flanked by two stupas. In 1957, the main crypt was looted, and a number of Buddha images and gold artefacts were stolen. Though the thieves were eventually caught, few of the treasures could be recovered. Despite that, Wat Ratchaburana boasts one of the finest central prangs in the city of Ayutthaya, making it the perfect first stop on your itinerary.
2. Wat Mahathat
Wat Mahathat was one of the most important temples in the kingdom of Ayutthaya. Known as the “temple of the Great Relic”, many Buddha relics are enshrined within the temple, and it was also the seat of the Supreme Patriarch of Buddhism. Being a Royal monastery located just a few steps away from the King’s palace, many important ceremonies were held and performed in Wat Mahathat. It features a central prang, a sizable main viharn (assembly hall) and a couple of other secondary chedis (Buddhist stupas) and viharns.
Most revered is a strange site within its grounds: the head of a Buddha sits deeply twined in the roots of a banyan tree. Its origins have yet to be verified, but some believe it was due to flooding and the rapid growth of vegetation. Take your time wandering through the ruins of this sprawling monastery, and don’t forget to snatch a shot with the famed Buddha head before you move on.
3. Wat Phra Si Sanphet
Declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, the Ayutthaya Historical Park is an expansive stretch filled with the crumbling remains of ancient temples and palaces that once graced the majestic kingdom of Ayutthaya. Nestled amongst the ruins is Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the most important temple of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. This large monastery sat within the Royal Palace complex, and was used exclusively by Ayutthaya kings.
Three large, bell-shaped stupas stand at the heart of the temple complex. The towers were once gilded, and are each accompanied by a mondrop (a square building with a pyramidal roof) at its side. Tragically, the beautiful gold Buddha image that was once featured within the temple was melted down during the Burmese invasion — though, the remaining bronze was restored and presently enshrined in Bangkok’s Wat Pho.
4. Wat Lokaya Sutha
Wat Lokaya Sutha, also known as “Temple of the Earth,” is situated in the north-western expanse of the city, tucked neatly along the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River. Unfortunately razed to the ground during the 1767 Burmese invasion, the temple was restored in 1956. The temple complex is centred around a main prang which slopes upwards into a 30-metre tall corncob-shaped tower. In its eastern courtyard, three brick viharns dominate the monastery, and to the west of the central prang stands the ubosot (ordination hall).
A highlight of the temple is a 42-metre long Buddha that lies serenely on its side, basking in the warm Ayutthaya sun. This reclining Buddha, dubbed Phra Buddha Sai Yat, rivals the one housed in Wat Pho — At 8 metres high, it towers over visitors. Noticeably rain-worn and weather-ravaged, cosmetic repairs were carried out on the statue in recent years, though the Buddha remains vulnerable to the elements.
5. Wat Chai Watthanaram
Occupying its spot on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River, Wat Chai Watthanaram is further south of Wat Lokaya Sutha, a significantly longer trek away from where the previous temples are clustered. This temple flaunts a Khmer-style architecture, and is one of Ayutthaya’s grandest monuments. First constructed in 1630 by King Prasat Thong, Wat Chai Watthanaram was, like many other temples, extensively damaged during the war with Burma. However, it was painstakingly restored by the Fine Arts Department throughout the late 1980s to early 1990s.
The temple’s central prang rises to 35 metres, and is representative of Mount Meru, a mountain in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology that is believed to be the centre of the universe and surrounded by oceans. Four stretches of stairs run up each face of the central prang, with the east-facing flight leading into a crypt where relics were enshrined. Flanking the central tower are eight chedis interconnected by secret underground passages and each adorned with a Buddha image.
End your day with a slow ascend up the tower; At the highest point of Wat Chai Watthanaram, take a deep breath and look around — Ayutthaya is put on grand display for you; it is a city that will never die.
Most people don’t realize that there are hidden gems outside of Bangkok, and after a day or two in the heart of Bangkok’s downtown, they may find that they’ve run out of things to do. Ayutthaya is a mere 2-hour train ride away (less by car), bursting with history and an unspoken past, so why not take some time away from the rush of city life to admire the echoes of Ayutthaya’s yesteryears. Spend a day in this ancient capital, and let the temples tell you their story.
