There are some things that are quintessential to Italian culture, and one of those things is undoubtedly their food. As a major city, Milan has been the birthplace of many a dish, from variations of Italian classics, to entirely unique offerings, there’s a host of delicious options for every meal, as well as all the snack moments in between.
Polenta
Made from boiled cornmeal and served hot as a porridge, or cool as a loaf that can be baked, grilled or fried, polenta is a staple dish. Though often served as a side to meats or stews, in Northern Italy, polenta is something close to sacred. It’s so important that there were societies in the 18th and 19th Centuries that were founded to honour their place in Italian cuisine. Though polenta is usually simply an accompaniment to the main dish, Al Cantinone, near the Duomo, offers it as an appetiser, served with mushrooms, cheeses and more.
Brioche (Cornetto)
If you’ve just made your way north from Central or Southern Italy and you’re looking for a cornetto, don’t bother. In Northern Italy, the horn shaped pastry, similar to a croissant, except softer and less buttery, is known as a brioche. Baked as a crescent of dough and then cut in half to serve, brioches are usually filled with custard, cream or jam, and when paired with an espresso, it’s one of the most common breakfasts in Italy. You’ll find it almost anywhere in the city, in pasticcerias and other bakeries, as well as in gelaterias, where they’re used as cones for your gelato.
Panettone
If you’re in Milan around Christmas or the New Year, you’ll find panettone absolutely everywhere. This Italian sweet bread, filled with candied fruit and nuts and usually served with a sweet wine or liqueur, is thought to have originated from the city, and is popular during the festive season, but there are places in the city that offer it all year round. Sometimes also served with crema di marscarpone, panettone is the perfect dessert after a long day, despite its relatively mundane name. Legend has it that panettone might be derived from a Milanese phrase, pan del ton, which means ‘hat of luxury’. A fitting name for this lovely, dome-like cake.
Cotoletta
Northern Italian fare is notoriously meat heavy, and cotoletta is one of the most well-known meat dishes that have their origins in the city. Derived from the Italian costoletta, meaning ‘little rib’, cotoletta is a breaded veal cutlet, usually served bare with potatoes on the side. This style of preparation was so popular in Argentina when Italians immigrated there that it lives on to this day as milanesa. And though debates abound over whether cotoletta should be thin and crisp, similar to a wiener schnitzel, or thicker and juicier like steak, and whether the bone should be left in or taken out, you can be pretty much assured that however you try it, it’ll be extremely satisfying.
Risotto alla Milanese
Risotto is one of the most common ways of cooking rice in Italy, especially in the North, where the Po Valley, known as the “rice bowl of Italy”, is located. And since Milan is also in the Po Valley region, it’s no surprise that this is where risotto originates. Though risotto is now often white, or sometimes black when cooked with squid ink, risotto alla milanese is distinct with its bright yellow colour, courtesy of the saffron used in its preparation. And though risottos are usually served as a first course before the main, risotto alla milanese is usually served before the next dish on our list.
Ossobuco
Ossobuco, and specifically ossobuco alla milanese, is usually served after you’ve had your risotto alla milanese. Another well-known meaty dish from Northern Italy, ossobuco is a specialty of Lombard cuisine, and translates to ‘bone in hole’, which refers to the prized part of the braised, cross-cut veal shanks - the marrow. Ossobuco has two variations, one made with tomatoes and one without, and it’s the tomato-free version that is the more traditional method. When not served with risotto, ossobuco is usually served with polenta, another regional staple.
Busecca, trippa alla milanese
The meat feast continues with busecca, also known as trippa alla milanese. A winter staple, busecca is a soupy preparation of tripe, and is also the word for tripe in the Milanese dialect. Hearty, full of vegetables, broth and a little bit of tomato purée, busecca is traditionally regarded as “peasant food”, so you won’t usually find it in restaurants. However, come the cold months, they’ll start to make an appearance on the menus of more traditional restaurants, and you can have yourself a warm comforting bowl to drink down.
Minestrone Milanese
Like pasta, minestrone is a dish that varies strongly by region - it’s said you can tell where you are in Italy by tasting the minestrone. Unlike many dishes in the region, minestrone remains meat-free and heavy on vegetables, usually cabbage, beets, tomatoes and other seasonal selections, all simmered in a thick, rich broth. However, unlike other minestrones, you’ll know you’re having minestrone milanese because instead of pasta, there’s rice. If you’re looking for a break from the meat, this soup is your best bet.
Gorgonzola
Cheese features heavily in Italian cuisine, either as a topping like on pizzas and pastas, or by itself like burrata, or as part of a cheese board served with wine. One of the most well-known Italian cheeses originated from, and is named after, a small town in the greater Milan area, Gorgonzola. With its distinctive blue veining and pungent aroma, gorgonzola cheese can be soft and buttery, or firm and crumbly. It also comes in two varieties - dolce, which literally means ‘sweet’, and is sweet and creamy, and piccante, which literally means spicy, and has a sharper, spicier bite.
